Modeling in Public
and
Making them look like the real ones
Model railroading is somewhat unique in
the modeling world. They are not
static models. Sometimes some of us
get to actually run them and see how they perform.
In seeking the ultimate model sometimes we forget what it looks like when
it is in use emulating the real thing. Having
some experience running on a number of layouts over the country I have
discovered a few tricks I'd like to share with you on how to make the models
appear to behave a bit more like the real things.
Weathering
Some
like it some don't. It don't look
real to me unless it looks like it was earning it's keep.
The one you do first hurts you the worst.
Sometimes you over do it, but then look around, you can always find
something that is more unbelievably aged than your own worst efforts.
The best thing is the more you get into it the more details you will
notice you can incorporate into your efforts.
Chalks, washes, and air brush can all be used successfully. Like most scenery it is one of the less expensive things you
can do and you will get a LOT of satisfaction from it once you are able to
swallow that lump and start.
Cars that wobble and shake
Check to make sure all wheels are round by turning the car
over and spinning each set of wheels. Look for dirty wheels that have collected residue on the
wheel making it run off center. Those
that are actually out of round will need to be replaced If the wheels are true then with screw mounted trucks,
tightening one set of trucks so they are snug, but can still swivel freely.
Leave the trucks on the other end of the car loose so they will better
follow imperfectly laid tracks. Those
trucks that clip on are more of a problem.
Many of them have rubbing blocks cast into the trucks and the bottom of
the cars. Make sure the trucks that
have the blocks on them are on the correct end of the car with the rub blocks on
the car. Sometimes you have to
modify the car and put a screw in one truck to be able to tighten it correctly.
One truck snug, one truck loose works best.
Scale Speed Operation
Remember speed is reduced as the size of your models is. You need to operate your models in accordance with their
size. 1/87 to 1 for HO and 1/160
for N. This scales out to about 1
foot per second is 60 scale miles per hour in HO and 120 miles per hour in N.
A little chuffing sound effects boxcar will do wonders to slow you down.
It usually takes a good quality power pack to do this.
With can motors it takes a transistorized throttle to get good slow speed
operation.
Slow speed operation
Model trains look much more realistic if they are not operated like slot
cars or race cars. Accelerate
SLOWLY and PONDEROUSLY. It helps if
the engine is well lubricate with lubricant designed for model trains.
Also use a bit of RIX on the track to improve conductivity between the
wheels and track. The small amount of lubrication helps the wheels slide by the
imperfections in the track also. Remember
between shows it is possible for the lubricant to evaporate and dry out.
Check each loco out before the show, they always run better if they are
run through a preshow inspection/lube.
Trains breaking apart
Coupler height is the most likely problem here.
This isn't too bad on NMRA couplers but it can be a real problem with
KADEE'S, especially on modular layouts that have problems with humps at the
joints. It seems to be more
prevalent on HO layouts than N scale. If
you are running on modules use short cars and engines.
The longer the wheelbase of the unit the more the couplers are shifted
vertically when a hump or uneven track is encountered.
If you need to run long units think about using NMRA couplers or a
variety that lock better than the KAYDEES.
Squeaky axles
If
the tone is not too loud it can an enhancement, especially if you are running
slow, but if you are highballing it sounds suspiciously like crickets or a bunch
of mice, not like a scale flange squealing around a curve!
Best to use the Labelle on the offending truck and keep them quiet.
More preshow inspections are in order.
Wheel Gauge
Running
on a variety of track on modular layouts will really test the standards of your
equipment. Use the NMRA gauge on
everything you own. Including the track on the layout. I once had quite a bit of trouble with a set of diesels
during a show on another fellows module. We
had a good time teasing each other about his faulty track vs. my faulty engines.
Turned out it was both. One
of my engines had a set of wheels that were loose on the axles. He had a turnout
that had been heated too hot with a soldering iron and the rails moved together.
This all combined to the point where that one engine would not go through
that particular turnout without going on the ground.
Car weights
The
cars do track better if they are brought into the NMRA standards as far a weight
goes. They will also track better
if you test roll them down an incline of about 2%.
Shift wheel sets in the trucks, lubricate and finally discard the
wheelsets or trucks that won't roll. They
will cause you more grief than they are worth.
Metal vs. Plastic wheels
This can start a lot of discussions.
Do what works best for you. The
plastic non sprung trucks work better for me.
I found a buddy that liked metal wheelsets and we swapped about 100 sets
of trucks. Now we are both happy.
Fill those track gaps
On modular layouts no matter what happens or how accurately the modules
are built, the track is cut, or gauged, changes in humidity, moving the modules,
the phase of the moon, etc. there always seems to be gaps in the track joints
between the modules. Cut the track
to fit or have someone go around with small pieces of styrene to fill the
cracks. Trains don't like jumping
from rail to rail, especially going into a curved piece of track.
We've used all kinds of cutting gauges etc. to try to hold the tolerances
to an acceptable fit and we have always had to trim to fit to get the trains to
run well. I think this is a bigger
problem in HO than in N scale.
Too much ballast
Use the NMRA gauge to make sure the ballast is not causing derailments.
Also use an old car with a set of trucks with deep flanges and push it
around feeling for ballast that is too high near the railhead.
Cut the high spots down with a small screwdriver.
Clear out all flangways on turnouts and crossings, etc.
Make sure the ballast is securely tacked down with adhesive. You don't want it moving around or vibrating while the trains
are operating. That can cause
ghostly derailments. The darned
things never derail the same place twice.
Humps between modules I have been fortunate in belonging to four different modular groups over
the years. They all have trouble
with humps between the modules. N
scale does not seem to be bothered as bad as HO.
I have not seen any infallible solution yet.
Track going out of gauge
In one location we had to set up our modular layout outside a number of
times. Each time this was done if
the direct sunlight was allowed to strike the track it heated the rails so hot
they caused the plastic ties to soften and bow the rails together to the point
that we couldn't run the trains because the track gauge became too narrow.
This gets expensive in track, time, and especially frustration if it
happens while you are operating in front of a crowd.
Don't let the sun shine directly on the layout!
Rain on the layout
Don't laugh it has happened twice to clubs I have belonged to.
Once because we set up in a park under a covered picnic area that leaked
and once in a large building that had a leaky roof.
How much water fell determines the damage done.
If the layout got a good soaking expect warping.
If it was minor then a little scenery repair is all that is needed.
A good coat of paint on the modules before applying scenery will do a lot
to prevent harm when things like this happen.
Remember you have to soak things down pretty well when applying the
scenery and ballast anyway, so the paint is probably a good idea.
In one of the occurrences we had so much water falling in a short time
that it actually washed some scenery off the layout.
Some
thoughts on Modules
If you have trouble with the crowds
wanting to touch the layout or scenery, get an old module and spruce it up a bit
then put it out by itself and label it the "PETTING MODULE". Now you
don't have to go negative when someone reaches out to touch your module, just
suggest they go touch the "PETTING MODULE".
It works great!
Modeler's
Conduct and the "DON'T TOUCH" syndrome
e-mail When your e-mail editor starts - please remove the first character (underbar.) It makes it a little unhandy for you - but it's the ONLY way I know to slow down those e-mail robots currently sending so much automated junk e-mail currently.
Copyright © 2002 Jim
Quarles, all rights reserved. Text, graphics, and HTML code are protected by
Copyright Laws, and may not be copied, reprinted, published, hosted, or
otherwise distributed by any means without explicit permission.
Jim Quarles
Springfield, MO
Revised: May 22, 2003