The West Bank

Day1--
Well I am here!! Like usual nothing went without its problems, the day before I was to leave I ripped my toe nail off and of course down to the last minute I was running late trying to remember things I forgot. I took off from the Moline Airport at 6:00 pm on schedule, the only trouble I seemed to have was that my shoe must have had fertilizer on it because my shoes set an alarm off and they asked me what I did and when I said we had a farm they let me go. They were warning of a possible delay because of hurricane Isabel but everything went as scheduled. (traveler's note; don't wear a belt with metal with it).
From Chicago to Frankfurt I sat next to a very nice Doctor who is originally from Amman-Jordan but lives in Kentucky. We both like volleyball and he was interested in our farm and livestock. The plane was very cramped but we passed time away talking. Later I told him I was going to Ramallah and he told me that I would truly enjoy it there and we exchanged emails. I felt good about all of this until I went into the bathroom and saw myself in the mirror (for the first time in 10 hours) and how my wild hair either made me look like a mad scientist or Bozo the clown. At Frankfurt, I had my first serious mathematical problem with the Euro. I think I bought a postcard for $16. The nine hours layover in Frankfurt was very nice, it let me sleep a couple of hours until they woke me up to check my buggage through. I was the first one in line for the security check until a gentleman came up with five bags and cut right in front of me. I was about to say something when he started yelling at the security lady ( Yes yelling). She called the manager and he came fast; he was complaining because it was 8:01 and he was told that the security check opens at 8:00. The manager told him that he'll open when he pleases and I think that delayed the whole line of us for five minutes out of spite. Also it gave me a chuckle to see that they made him open every single suitcase. The guy in line behind me laughed and said: "he was first class and in love with himself." (Traveler's note; suitcases with rollers sound like extremely mad bees at the Frankfurt airport because of the unique floor.. it was funny to hear the people obviously late for their plane with their suitcases buzzing along behind them).
I arrived in Tel-Aviv at 3:50 in the morning as scheduled. My problem started when I did not fill out the question "address in Israel", I should have just put Jerusalem. The guard was a girl in her twenties with a fake smile, she pulled me aside and asked me several different ways many different times where I am staying. Fortunately I had jotted down the names of some hotels in Jerusalem which I mentioned to her, she held my passport and asked me to collect my baggage and report back. When I came back to the guard she took me in a small room for more questions, I sat down at a table and she sat across from me and it seemed to be almost 30 seconds of silence so I broke it by asking her: "well, what do we do now? Arm wrestle?" Apparently she didn't think it was funny so I decided to keep my mouth shut. After more questions "where are you going? Why are you here? Where are you staying? How long are you staying? When did you buy your ticket? Where are you staying? Who bought your ticket? Why did you come? Are you meeting anyone? Where are you staying?" She searched me with the metal detector and had me remove my belt (that darn belt with the metal rivets) and that was it. (Traveler's note; security guards don't have a sense of humor).
Aside from that it was a relief when I walked out of the security area. I got to a pay phone and called my friend to let her know that I am ready to be picked up. One little complication was that I didn't have the proper card for the telephone so I had to buy a "tele card" (9 US Dollars for 50 minutes). I got change back in Shekels but I have no clue how much I got back. During my wait in the period of 20 minutes, I saw four soldiers (17-20 years old) with M16's slung on their back. It struck me as odd to compare this age group carrying guns guarding airports as opposed to the age group in the USA playing video games and worrying about being cool. At 6:30 my friend arrived with her mom and sister and I was much relieved to leave the airport. Upon stepping out of the airport, the world changed immediately for me. I couldn't read any signs, I couldn't understand any word, there was a mass confusion of cars and people. My friend had hired a taxi which is like a small mini bus from Ramallah to the airport. We hopped in that and sped off to Ramallah. Along the way I noticed big differences right away whereas in Illinois to the right and to the left of the highway you have hills of grass and trees, here you have hills of rocks and sands making the scenery completely different. There are two kinds of cars on the road, ones with the yellow plate for the Israelis and the white plates are for the West Bank people and the difference is that cars with West Bank plates are prohibited from going inside Israel, whereas cars with yellow plates are allowed anywhere inside Israel. On the way to Ramallah I saw some of the big barricades of rock and steel that are used to block routes used by Palestinians.
The driver was an acquaintance of the family and took me on a few detours on the way including one of the big settlements built in the West Bank. He also drove me around Arafat's compound and I could see all the destruction where the buildings were destroyed, he also passed by the Palestinian Police station that was the first place to be shelled in Ramallah. He showed me one of the bread ovens in the downtown old part of Ramallah where my friend bought some of the bread that we watched come out of the oven, the bread is called Ka'ek which is an oval shaped ring covered with sesame seeds. They also gave us grilled eggs which is like a hard boiled egg but grilled in the shell instead. At another part of the old city we stopped and I got to try a falafel. A falafel is made with ground chickpeas which is fried coming out in the shape of a hot dog. We arrived at the apartment and the driver came up to join us for breakfast. I met my friend's father who was waiting at the apartment for us. He reminds me in many ways of my own father, very precise and well-mannered. My friend's father talked of things from the occupation to the American Indians and he also reminisced about the earlier Palestine when he was a boy. We visited in the living room with the driver until breakfast was served. We ate the Ka'ek with olive oil (totally unlike the olive oil in the USA stores.. this has quite a delicious flavor). We had Arabic Coffee and visited in the kitchen.
This second story apartment is roomy, very well kept and clean and has two balconies which overlook part of Ramallah. They showed me to the room where I am to stay in, I took a shower (finally after 31 hours in travel) then I took a short nap until lunch was served (jet lag was catching up with me). For lunch we had rice with beef ground fine, mushrooms and pine nuts (this is the first time I've tasted pine nuts and they are very delicious) topped with a couple spoons full of Yogurt. Cucumbers and Tomatoes Salad with lemon juice, olive oil and salt dressing and grape juice for a drink. At first I was very nervous wondering if I was serving myself properly, eating at the right time wondering if there's a certain custom I should have followed while eating, but soon the nervousness passed and I was stuffing myself with delicious food.
I don't think that I've met anybody that has equaled them in hospitality. They've treated me like a king. My only concern was that I would be an imposition to them, they've gone out of their way to make me feel at home and comfortable. Later in the evening my friend, her sister and mother took me to Rukab's Ice cream shop which is famous all over the area. I had a chocolate Milk Shake and sat at the window amazed at the downtown area. The downtown area reminded me of Holywood - California; tall buildings on either side of the small streets, cars zipping around in unbelievable speed, people crossing back and forth to the shops and a wonderful air of a city population. I got a few looks (maybe it was my long hair) but it was all curiosity and friendliness. After the ice cream we walked around a few blocks as they showed me the area. All the roads in Ramallah leads to the center of the city and that's where there is a square with 7 lion statues that represent the 7 original families of Ramallah and which was donated by the French Government, this square is called Al-Manarah Square.
When we got back we had some tea and sweets and I set about recording my day (and now I am here). I'll get this posted on the web and see you tomorrow.
Salam (peace in Arabic).

Day 2
The second day

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