Wine bars for every mood
By Bernell Dorrough
Of the Post-Dispatch
Thursday, Jun. 23 2005
The popularity of wine is timeless. Did the ancient Sumerians drink
Cosmopolitans? No. Did Jesus turn water into Zima? Of course not. But despite
wine’s never-ending prominence, finding the right spot to enjoy a glass can be
easier said than done. A good wine bar needs not only a wide enough selection
to satisfy the aficionado in your group but also a wait staff that will be
patient when newbies ask them to suggest "a good yellow one."
I'm not going to offer a primer on wine; there is just too much information to
sum up in a few words. I will, however, offer a tip my dad told me years ago.
Find a couple red wines and a couple whites you enjoy that are available at
most restaurants and bars. You'll be able to order with confidence even if your
knowledge stops at "It's made from grapes."
33 reasons to go
If you really want to jump head first into the deep end of wine drinking, head
down to 33 (1913 Park Ave.) in Lafayette Square. Don’t be surprised if you can’
t find it though. The owner focuses on his regular crowd of connoisseurs — so
much so, that there isn’t even a sign outside. Despite its emphasis on the
serious wine crowd, the staff is surprisingly helpful, and my bartender Tricia
was more than willing to spend time helping me find the right glass. I went
with the Mt. Vernon Sauvignon Blanc ‘04 ($6.50), a white wine that has the
fruity flavors of grapefruit and kiwi without being overly sweet. The
by-the-glass list is pretty anemic at only eight wines, but if you’re willing
to drop more cash, 33 has over 600 bottles available.
The mix of wood, glass and metal furniture gives the bar a classy, trendy
ambiance, without feeling like it will be out of style next year. The hip mood
is complemented by light piano jazz emanating from the stereo. As can be
expected given its focus on connoisseurs, most people there are in their 30s
and 40s, and many conversations seemed to center around the bottles on the
table.
A night with Sasha
Ever since it opened two years ago, Sasha’s (706-C DeMun Ave.) has been one of
my favorite nighttime spots in St. Louis. Whereas the wine stole the show at
33, the drinks are only part of the equation that make this bar on Demun Avenue
a winner. The bar’s patio is always filled with 20- and 30-somethings talking
with friends and enjoying the night air, and this friendly mix of regulars and
newcomers tends to be more focused on their conversations than their drinks.
The atmosphere is completed by the bar’s stone and metal furniture and music
that ranges from Coldplay to techno — everything comes together to form a
unique blend of European sensibilities and American trends.
Rounding out the list of reasons to check out this hotspot is the
knowledgeable, friendly staff. Nate, one of the bartenders, quickly helped me
pick my drink for the evening, a glass of Wolftrap ‘03 ($6). This blend of
seven varieties of wine is extremely smooth and has a distinctly pleasant taste
of plums and dried fruit. The rest of the bartenders and servers were equally
willing to make suggestions, offer wine-drinking advice or just join in on a
friendly conversation. Plus, though the total selection is a relatively small
at 130 bottles, several dozen are available by the glass, making it a good stop
if you’re in the mood for variety or just keeping an eye on your budget.
The band at Balaban’s
The first two stops are perfect if want a connoisseur’s haven or a trendy place
to chill with your friends, but what if you want that feel of a Las Vegas
lounge? No, don’t head to the casinos, just drop by Balaban’s (405 North Euclid
Ave.) in the Central West End. Red leather couches curve around the bar, and
lamps emit yellow- and red-tinted light. But what really brought the mood
together on the night of my visit was a live performance by the Gene Lynn Trio.
Live jazz is the perfect music for wine-drinking; after all, drinking wine is
about feeling classy and sophisticated. Plus, when a tux-wearing jazz singer is
present, it’s hard not to feel like you’re Frank Sinatra. Although the trio
probably won’t be there when you visit, the bar has live music several times a
week.
The bar has a selection of about 300 bottles, but it doesn’t focus solely on
wine. Although my bartender was friendly, he understandably lacked the
enthusiasm for talking about wine that I found at my previous stops. Despite
that minor shortcoming, he made the best recommendation I’ve received in a
while. My glass of Graff Riesling ($5.95) was one of the few drinks in recent
memory to make me literally say, “Wow.” This sweet, citric wine is tannic but
has literally no aftertaste.
Visit the 20-Buck Bernie home page for wine bar music mixes.
Check out a couple great wine-drinking tools in the Gear Guide.
Did I miss something? Think I'm way off-base? Drop by the 20-Buck Bernie forum
to offer feedback and suggestions for future stops. |
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