Mattie's Magical Car Detailing

Since I'm doing it right now, I thought I'd share my method for protecting my vehicle, and the vehicles of those I love.

The first step, and the most important, is for me to get behind the wheel of the car. It only takes a couple of minutes to set up a pretty solid defense system this way, though on my own cars, I go much further.

The first line of defense is to charge the vehicle so that it sends out a warning to living things, telling them to get off the roadway. This is pure energy work, and needs no accoutrements to accomplish, just will and a lot of energy.

As you sit in the drivers' seat, hands on the wheel, ground and center yourself. Now, pull up as much energy as you can and push it out into every last bit of the vehicle. You need to visualize the car in perfect condition, no rust, no dents, no dings, running perfectly, along with hearing a sound that would warn animals of the car's approach. Also bring up the image of a warning coming to you to slow down when you are approaching living things on the roadway. Hold this complete image in your head for a few minutes and bind it to the material of the car. This is the first layer of protection, and by itself is enough to protect the car from most accidents, and that makes it ideal for using with other people's cars. But, we can do a good deal more for our own cars.

If you can detail the car, you can make the shields very powerful indeed. The more you can do, the better, IMO. So, let's go over the detailing process and what protection each step can offer magically.

First, you need to do the interior of the vehicle. Start with canned air to dust out vents and crevices. This is removing hidden contaminants. Then vacuum the entire interior, including the ceiling panel. If there are stains on the upholstry or the ceiling, now is the time to cleanse them away. On the ceiling, use only products that are recommended for this process, and do NOT get it wet, or it'll delaminate and look really bad. This step removes the visible contaminants. Now, cleanse and protect the vinyl and plastic interior trim. I recommend non-silicone based protectants because they last longer and won't break down the material if you don't do this every few months. Toothpicks and cotton swabs will allow you to get into the tiny crevices of the dash and vents to removed dust and apply products. Be sure to clean and protect the door seals, as this helps keep unwanted things out. This step rejuvenates the interior, bringing it back to a fresh appearance. Now, clean the windows. Roll down the windows a couple inches and work the seals clean on both sides, then roll them up and finish the job. Repeat these steps on the trunk. Magically, at this point, you have removed any unwanted energies from the interior.

Now start on the exterior. Wet the car down with a gentle flow of cold water. This helps cool the metal, which will help protect the finish. Generally, I start with popping the trunk and hood and get the debris out of the crevices manually, then soak them with plain water to help loosen up the stuck on dirt. Close them both. Now, work from the top down, one section at a time. Using cold water and car washing soap (NOT dish soap, as it removes the wax that helps protect the paint, which you don't want), wash the roof and rinse well. Work your way from the back of the car forward, opening the trunk and hood when you reach them to wash out the crevices, and while you're washing, imagine all the unwanted energies flowing off with the rinse water.

Once the body is washed, put a sprinkler head on your hose end and put it under the car to begin rinsing the under carriage. This is most vital in areas where salt and grime from winter roadways will accumulate under the car.

Once the car is washed, it's time to cleanse. Using a mildly abrasive cleanser that is approved for the finish on your car and a lot of soft cloths, starting again with the roof, then working from the top down, back to front, gently polish off the layer of old wax, oxidation and sticky stuff. You may need special products to remove tree sap or tar. And again, do a section at a time. Don't allow the product to dry on. This removes any remaining unwanted energy along with the last of the surface imperfections.

Now that the car is clean, it's time to make it shine and protect it. Polish the car with a good quality wax or polymer product. If you will be willing to wax every 4 months, carnuba wax is best. If you're not likely to do that, or your car is exposed to the elements all the time, use the polymer as it is more durable than wax. Again, start at the top, but this time work from the front to the back. As you apply the polish, imagine an impenetrable shield being laid upon your car that will keep others from harming your vehicle. By the time you finish the application, the first section should be ready for buffing. As you buff off the wax (in the same order as you applied it), imagine those shields growing stronger and more solid. Imagine that the now shining surface reflects off any harmful energies and keeps away anything that might damage you or your vehicle.

The last step is to protect the exterior windows, exterior trim and your wheels and tires. They were washed with the rest, now cleanse them and apply an appropriate exterior vinyl, rubber and plastic sealant. Chrome trim should be cleaned with a little glass cleaner and a very soft, clean cloth. Don't forget the lights. The final shielding is now complete. Your car is now physically and magically protected.

There is one more thing you can do for the interior if you like. You can buy ozone bombs to kill the odors in the interior, and I do recommend them. You set the bomb off inside the car, close the door and leave it for an hour. Then air the car out for an hour. Ozone kills off the bacteria that can cause odors in the car's upholstery and will eliminate cigarette odor as well.

How long will this take? Expect this to be an all day project. Doing a very good detail on your car will take about 8 hours, usually. By combining the physical protection of your car with the magical, you are killing two birds with one stone. Physically, detailing your car at least twice a year fully, and twice a year mostly will help preserve the value of your car. I time my full detailing for after my end of winter and end of summer tuneups and after my end of spring and end of fall oil change/fluids clecks.

Oh, and to keep my car in good shape, I run it through the car wash every two weeks in between, get the wax, and I use the car wash that has an under carriage wash, since I live in an area where the roads have to be treated with de-icer salts and sand. Keeping that off the undercarriage helps a lot to prevent rust. I also get my car undercoated professionally, and when I can afford it, I have it detailed once a year professionally, but since I rarely can afford to do that, I have learned how to get a nearly professional detailing done myself.